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Kentucky
Owned & Operated By the Lamastus Family 1744 Finney Road Rockfield, Kentucky 42274 Phone 270-991-8587 (cell) Email: neilnk@accessky.net
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| 2002-2004 Foals
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**Unless Noted otherwise, all photos and information contained within this website are the copyrighted property of Kentucky Puggles/Kelly & Neil Lamastus and may not be copied without written permission. Plagiarizing information from this site may be punishable under penalty of law. Upon authorization, credit must be given to Kentucky Puggles. Any information on this site written by other parties is noted by the article or credit is given to a link. ** Kentucky Puggles Proudly Presents Puggles, Puggles, Puggles
See our "Puppies" Page for Reservation Details. New for 2010
Mobie at home in his play yard - shown at 7 weeks old & at a mature 9 months Mobie lives in Chicago, Illinois with his parents Meg Stahulak & Jackie Singer Introduction Our goal is to educate the public about the Puggle so you can make an informed decision if this mixed breed fits your needs. We are happy to assist you by answering any question(s) you may have about this hybrid cross whether you adopt a pup from us or someone else. We do NOT recommend puppy mills, brokers or large scale breeders no matter how nice their facilities. We believe every breeder is responsible for the lives they create and we are no exception. We only breed when we have deposits on a litter prior to breeding so we know our puppies have homes waiting for them. When you adopt a puppy or dog from us, we are here for you for the lifetime of your pet and long afterwards. If at any time you are unable to care for your Kentucky Puggle, you may surrender your dog to us so that we may find them a suitable home or we'll assist you in locating a new home while they remain in your care.
Wrigley at 4 months with Mom Mollyann & Dad Ryan Puggle Characteristics The difference between a "hybrid" mix and a mutt is all in the breeding. A mutt is generally of unknown parentage (on the lucky daddy's side) but a hybrid is an intentional mix of two purebred parents. Puggles are a hybrid cross between a purebred Beagle mother and a purebred Pug father or vice versa. You see more beagle mothers and pug fathers than you do pug mothers and beagle fathers. Both are correct but pug mothers tend to have more difficulty during birth due to their narrow hip structure and have issues helping their pups out of the amniotic sac because of their snub nose. Both breeds have been long recognized for their loyalty, kindness, intelligence and all around good nature. Puggles are wonderful with children, other household pets and extremely loyal to their families. They are wonderfully loyal companion pets that just want to please and are perfect for the family with limited living space. Currently, the Puggle is not a recognized breed if its own but all our puppies are from carefully selected purebred registered parents and are eligible for registration with the CKC as a mixed breed. The registration will provide you with a 3 generation history of your pup and lifelong support from CKC. You may also participate in certain CKC sponsored events. Contrary to popular belief, the Puggle has been in existence for over a decade bringing joy to their families. It's only due to recent public attention that the Puggle has grown in popularity.
Dakota who lives with the Malicote Family in Kentucky Photos at 6 weeks and 8 weeks old Click here to see Dakota's page at myspace.com The Puggle is a hybrid or cross breed that has lots of intelligence combined with a loving, sweet disposition in a well-conformed body. They are energetic dogs with a thickset body, a smooth short-haired coat of fawn, tan, apricot (golden) or black in color (white markings may also be present), a wrinkled forehead, curled tail, black facial mask and drooping ears. Depending on the size of the parents, Puggles stand at a height of 10-15" at the shoulder and weigh between 15-30 pounds at maturity. Weight can also vary based upon diet at home and you're more apt to see a thick bodied Puggle rather than a thin Puggle. Puggles are fairly easy to train, and incredibly intelligent. Like their parents, puggles are sensitive to the tone of your voice and body language so bold gestures or harsh tones can upset your Puggle. They love to play, walk and snuggle with their owners. Since they are a mixture of beagle and pug, Puggles can inherit characteristics of either breed. They can develop a howl like a beagle, a muffled throaty sounding bark of the pug, a normal dog bark or talk very little at all. Puggles make a variety of interesting sounds also. Our babies make a cooing sound like Gizmo from the movie "Gremlins" or the purr of a Guinea Pig. They do whine and growl like every other dog can. Beagles and pugs can and do sometimes snore and like most animals, have occasional gas. Adorable King Kong who lives in Lexington, Kentucky with the Tedsen Family Photos at one week old and 9 weeks old
Unlike their full-blooded "cousins", Puggles do not usually experience the same issues that some find troublesome. Full blooded Pugs can suffer from breathing complications and intolerance to warmer and cooler temperatures due to their almost nonexistent muzzle. Purebred Beagles love to hunt and will often become distracted by a scent and wander away from home if left unattended. They'll come home eventually but beagles can get injured or killed due to their nature. They tend to run with their head down, unaware of the world around them and are often hit by passing cars. Because of this, beagles need to be kept indoors, on a leash or in a large run when not accompanied by their human family. Puggles have an elongated muzzle inherited from their mother, usually does not become overly distracted by scents and has a wrinkled face through maturity. This complimentary blending creates a well rounded, unique looking, attractive small/medium dog that likes to stay close to their family. Although the Puggle is a mixed or hybrid dog, a true Puggle has verifiable (registered) purebred parents. Without the registration, anyone can tell you the parents are purebred. We've also seen many "pocket" "teacup" or "toy" sized Puggles advertised. Using such words implies a small size but be very careful. Beagles are generally in two size classifications measured at the shoulder - a standard beagle is 15" and others are in a 13" and under class. Smaller sized dogs are more in demand and many breeders will tell you what you want to hear. Although small purebred beagles and pugs do exist , many of the tiny beagles and pugs you see are actually cross bred with another breed to create their small size. These small beagles or pugs appear under various names (some even have their own special registry) and many times their breeders will tell you they are purebred when in fact they're not. Depending on what breeds are present, those Puggles may have a different disposition and appearance than purebred Beagle and Pug crosses do. Sometimes this only becomes evident as the pup begins to mature. In some parts of the country, a pocket beagle is referred to as a small beagle standing 12" at the shoulder so ask the breeder for clarification and a guarantee. Anyone expecting a full grown dog that will fit in your pocket will be sorely mistaken when that dog reaches maturity. That is why we only have AKC or CKC registered female beagles and an AKC registered proven purebred male pug. Our beagles and pug male have been carefully selected to their breed conformation standard and have no known genetic or congenital disorders.
Mr. Franco lives in Fairfax, Virginia with Mom Jackie & Dad, Mike Hannigan Photos at 2 weeks, 2 months and 4 months old
The Great Debate There is a great debate between purebred breeds vs. mixed breeds. The origin of the modern domesticated dog all began thousands of years ago with the wolf, coyote or jackal. Through thousands of years of domestication (socialization) and selective breeding, the modern dog is much different from it's wolf ancestor. The modern dog is more dependent upon man instead of being afraid of man. Although our modern dog can still hunt, they are no longer the predator that the wolf still is. Both wolf (lupine) and dog (canine) have 39 pairs of chromosomes so interbreeding is still possible but the modern domesticated dog has evolved into its own species. Every purebred breed was established by mixing one breed with another at some point in time to create a certain look, desired trait or working ability. Most of these breeds were established hundreds or thousands of years ago and are what we know as "purebreds" today. As mentioned above, the difference between a "hybrid" and a mutt is in the breeding. A hybrid is an intentional mix of two purebred dogs and a mutt is generally one of unknown parentage - usually on the father's side (the uh oh factor). Of course, when you are looking to add a dog to your family, everyone has their own idea of what that dog should look and act like and where to find their pet. We all have certain criteria in mind when choosing a pet whether purebred or mixed. It all comes down to personal choice. We're honest about our dogs and our program so that choice can be easier for you. Our puggles come from AKC/CKC purebred parents and are able to be registered with CKC as mixed dogs so you can retain a family history of your pup. 1st Generation vs. 2nd Generation Puggles & Becoming A Real Breed I'm frequently asked what a first generation Puggle is and whether or not it's possible to breed Puggle to Puggle. A first generation true Puggle comes from a purebred beagle parent and a purebred pug parent ONLY. Generally all the pups in the litter will have the same "look". Their coat color and markings can vary but for the most part their physical characteristics are the same. It is possible to breed Puggle to Puggle (2nd generation Puggle) as long as one is a male and one is a female - same as breeding any other dog. This breeding usually won't create the same outcome as first generation puggles. If you're breeding two Puggles from purebred parents, you're still dealing with 50% beagle and 50% pug, but the genetics are a bit more shuffled the 2nd time around. The pups can look more like beagles, pugs or the puggles you started with and have various color combinations. There are many breeders who are using what I call a creative license as to what constitutes a Puggle. A Puggle is NOT part Poodle, Chihuahua, or any other breed - it is the mix of a purebred beagle and pug ONLY. A 2nd generation Puggle is the result of breeding true Puggle to true Puggle and nothing else. The road to establishing a "breed" is an arduous one and requires time and several generations of selective breeding to produce consistent results. Since every purebred breed known today once started with two different breeds of dogs, you can appreciate how long it took to create the consistent look and build that we now recognize. If puggles are to become a breed of their own, the look and conformation must be reproduced successfully each time a Puggle is bred to a Puggle. Until that is achieved, it is doubtful that the Puggle will become a modern purebred breed. Little Miss Sushi - Perfect Puggle Puppy shown at 4 months old
A Word About Genetics A MUST Read for Every Puppy/Dog Owner In the 1800's man started to create what is called "the breed standard" which applies to the conformation and general "look" of each dog breed but not the ability of the dog for the task intended. The focus being changed from ability to looks also started to create inbreeding causing many of the genetic issues seen today due to the limited gene pool at the time. Any time the genetics available are limited, chances of recessive genetic problems becoming dominant are increased. That is why every breed of our modern dogs are predisposed to certain genetic conditions. In short, there is NO perfect dog just like there is no perfect human, or any other animal. Every canine carries a 7% chance of genetic or conformation fault. Because all creatures have faults, we must choose which faults are acceptable and which are not when breeding. With that being said, a knowledgeable breeder would not breed an animal with a dominant fault or two animals with the same fault thereby increasing the chance for a dominant negative trait to emerge. Still, even with careful selection, genetics is a true science but one that can not be fully guaranteed. Meaning, even a parent that does not display a certain fault may still produce pups with faults because of the extensive genes in their ancestry. Some heritable traits can be tested for (like hip displasia in large dogs) but many conditions can not be tested for or guaranteed they WON'T appear. Even show dogs with wonderful conformation can have medical or emotional issues. Some breeds are known for certain conditions so please before adopting a dog, look into the history of each breed present so you can make an informed decision. I have included a link below to an incredibly informative site (barkbytes.com) concerning dog breed medical history. To view beagles and pugs medical and breed attributes, click on each breed. Click HERE to view Barkbytes website. A new window will appear. The very delicate way any life is formed carries risk and is nothing short of a miracle when achieved. Nature has it's own way of throwing curve balls sometimes and even genetically superior parents can produce offspring with a medical, conformation or emotional deficiency. Sometimes such conditions are present at birth and other times they develop over time. Along with the genetic and congenital equation, it must also be understood that some conformation, medical or personality traits are due to environmental factors. The way any being is nurtured (or not), handled, nourished, the medical care it receives and living environment also has an input into the adult it will be. Meaning a being could be genetically superior but without proper nutrition and care it could be substandard as an adult. Sometimes deciding whether a fault is genetic, congenital or environmental can be difficult and a reliable breeder will keep careful records on any conditions known and will cull a breeding adult should certain genetic faults exist. Although every breeder strives to produce, raise and deliver perfect puppies to their clients, perfect just doesn't exist. Unfortunately, many people are with the understanding that all that is required to breed any animal is an able bodied male and female. That's only the beginning of the equation. The Puggle was created over a decade ago from two different gene pools/breeds to provide a small/medium sized companion animal that is unique in appearance but still carries some traits from each of its parents. Because of the varied gene pools, some experts will argue that a mixed breed dog may be healthier and genetically more stable. Opinion varies greatly and some people love them and others hate them but you have to judge for yourself. Just as there are no perfect dogs, animals or humans, there are NO perfect Puggles. Every breeder will still see undesirable traits in some pups even if they breed champion show dogs. There are pups born in each litter that are breed/show quality and those that are pet quality. We breed to produce high quality family companions. Although we strive to produce Perfect pups, that is a standard that NO breeder can achieve or guarantee no matter how knowledgeable or careful they are with their breeding stock. Perfection just does NOT exist so please do not expect it. If we are aware of any fault in a pup while in our care we will advise our clients of such before choosing their pup.
Where To Find Your Puggle Not all pups are raised the same. Regardless of breed, pups are raised in many different environments such as outdoor kennels, puppy mills (large quantities of different breeds, little human contact and generally poor conditions), upscale environmentally controlled facilities, inside a home environment, etc. Always ask to see where and how your puppy was raised. If the breeder is reliable, they will show you and will be willing to answer questions for you. Because puppies are very vulnerable to disease and illness some breeders may not allow you to view their nursery facilities or whelping areas. Many diseases are brought in on clothing, footwear or hands. A protective breeder is not necessarily a poor one. I'd worry more about a breeder who doesn't have any visitation rules. You should be able to view a kennel environment from the outside at any rate. Any reliable breeder will also be available to you AFTER you take your puppy or dog home too. I personally recommend pups raised
inside a home. Generally, pups raised in a home
environment instead of a kennel (no matter how nice)
learn socialization skills that many pups do not.
When living among a family, (depending on breeder and
program) they are used to household
noises from birth, tend to be handled and played with
more often, receive care on a constant basis, seem
happier, are potty pad trained, get some obedience
training, gain more socialization skills, are generally
cleaner, are not exposed to outdoor parasites, or fecal
material of their mother or other kennel residents. If
raised in a kennel, they may be cleaned and handled at
feeding time but may not have much human contact
otherwise.
It's certainly much harder to bring a pup in from a
kennel to cuddle with on the couch rather than walking
from one room to the other. It's
important to note also that not all breeds of dogs are
raised to be family companions. Some dogs are
working dogs, guard dogs, some are show dogs, etc. and
may have different socialization needs. Some
working, guard and show dog breeds are kennel born,
raised and kept so being raised inside a home may not be
the optimum environment for them. However, any dog
should have plenty of human interaction regardless of
their job. Our dogs are adopted
as companion animals and are raised in
a family environment for
a family environment. To us, that philosophy just
makes good common sense Puppy Brokers are people who purchase several pups or entire litters at a low cost and resell them to the public for profit. Brokers can be individual people or pet stores. Most brokers buy pups from puppy mills or large scale breeders after the pups are taken away from their mother and may or may not be knowledgeable about the parents or conditions that the pup was raised in. Sometimes the pups are taken from their mother too early which can cause emotional issues later. Brokers certainly do not raise the pups from birth so someone else has molded the pups prior to the broker. Stress levels in a brokered pup can also cause illness. Some brokers will tell you they've raised the puppies when in fact they haven't. They mainly buy the pups at a low price and sell higher for the income generated. These people are easier to spot because they ALWAYS have puppies available instead of keeping a waiting list or taking deposits on unborn litters. They normally do not have the parents on the premises either. It's not unusual for a breeder to use an outside sire for their pups but they should ALWAYS have the mother for you to see. Since a broker can and sometimes does purchase their pups from various sources, not all pups in their care are from the same litter or original breeder. You might ask why some of their pups can be registered and some can't. Breeder Liaison - This arrangement has been popping up all over the country and is a rather enhanced broker. Usually a person or company provides a listing service to multiple breeders and sells their puppies through photos on their own website. The breeders pay them a fee for selling their puppies so they don't have to do so. This liaison will sell many breeds, and try to sell you what is available at the time, not taking deposits on litters. This service generally doesn't know much about the individual puppies and may put you in contact with the actual breeder but usually not. If you dealt direct with the breeder, their service and fees wouldn't be needed and they'd be out of a job. Puppy Mills - Not everyone can or will be able to easily identify a puppy mill. Just because a breeder might have several dogs, it doesn't constitute a puppy mill. Professional breeders may have several dogs but rotate them for breeding purposes. Sometimes puppy mills are not places you can visit but breeders who supply pet stores, other brokers, etc. Normally the puppy mill is not a happy place and the breeding dogs and pups are kept in poor conditions and little thought or care is given to their medical, physical or emotional well being. The puppy mill breeder also concentrates on quantity not quality and will generally breed several different breeds and many dogs per breed. They usually do not allow visitors on their premises (they probably don't want you to see the conditions or the number of dogs they have) and may pick the pup for you instead of allowing you to pick the pup yourself. Many will tell you they will meet you at another location rather than have you come to their facility and may site security for a reason for not allowing you on the premises. Although security is a factor for any pet owner or breeder, most breeders will allow you visitation when they are present. If a breeder mentions security and refuses to let you on their property, it's probably best that you find someone else to work with. I've been asked about Puggles in animal shelters. I'd like to say you can't find Puggles there but you can. Most dogs and pups in shelters are there for one of many reasons. The dog or pup could have been purchased on impulse and the owner didn't really want to commit to their care, didn't know what they were getting into when adopting the dog/pup, or never made the commitment for their training. Other dogs are there because the owners moved and didn't take their 4 legged family member with them, some owners will drop off pregnant or nursing females and/or pups because they didn't get her spayed and don't want to deal with the resulting pups, behavior issues (usually due to poor or a lack of training), breeder over stock (some breeders take pups there once they're past profitable age and/or their retired breeding dogs), some dogs have been neglected or abused, or those who have health issues. Dogs and pups do not instantly know what is expected of them. We have to teach them. Make sure you're up for the commitment before adopting any dog or pup. Unfortunately when adopting from the shelter, you also don't have any or much family, medical or behavior history on the dog or pup. The actual breed or mix the shelter employees label the dog or pup with isn't always certain either so you may be surprised by mature height, weight, or disposition. Still, it's a wonderful way to give a dog or pup a home. They get examined prior to adoption, they're up to date on all needed care, and their cost is minimal compared to adopting direct from a breeder. Most shelters welcome volunteers to walk or play with the dogs so you can also have a wonderful avenue to experience a particular dog before you decide to adopt. Just be aware that you may encounter more training issues and you may need more patience. I myself have had some awesome pound dogs in my life and do recommend saving the life of a canine companion. I suppose that sounds strange coming from a breeder. Not everyone is comfortable adopting a dog or pup from a shelter for one reason or another so they look to a breeder for a different alternative. Although we support the shelters, we will NEVER send our pups or adult dogs there. All of our pups have homes waiting for them MONTHS prior to breeding and our adults are part of our own family. By working this way, we basically cut out impulsive adoptions, and creating pups without homes. We also send bi-weekly newsletters to our clients for months prior to the birth of their pup. Through our newsletters we educate and inform on a variety of subjects so that you're well aware and equipped to raise a Puggle even if you've never seen a dog before. We still encourage everyone to research on their own and be prepared for the commitment of dog adoption. If you have any second thoughts, please do not adopt from us.
HOW MUCH SHOULD I EXPECT TO PAY FOR MY PUGGLE? You will find puggles that greatly range in adoption price. To raise a litter of healthy, happy, well balanced pups regardless of breed, it takes a great deal of love, time and expense. Many times people are drawn to a low adoption price but you honestly have to consider what is involved in raising a pup and how that pup is raised. Some breeders advertise all over and do as little as necessary to turn a quick profit. Other breeders will go above and beyond to not just raise your pup but nurture them and spare no expense in doing so. Raising a litter of pups begins before conception actually takes place. Mom's body must be in top form nutritionally and physically and she must be in a good happy mental state. She needs to eat a high quality puppy food to give her body the extra nutrients to feed a litter of pups and to stay in top form and get plenty of love and attention. You will want a puppy who has been raised with loving care, has received any and all needed medical attention for their age and fed a high quality food. The start a puppy has in life determines the adult they will become. On average it will cost $400-$500 or more to feed the mother and pups from breeding to the time the pups leave the breeders care if they receive a food high in quality & nutrition. Medical expenses can range from $400-$600 or more depending on size of the litter, services rendered and whether conducted by the breeder or a veterinarian. You found the breeder through some sort of media so they also paid expenses to advertise. The breeder uses supplies which can cost a little or a lot per litter depending on their program. Simple supplies such as disinfectants for the puppy area cost about $30 per gallon. Hopefully the breeder has spent a great deal of time working with and nurturing your pup from birth to the time he or she leaves which includes communication with you. It's a great deal of time and more often than not, a breeders family sees very little of them when puppies are in residence. The pups need constant care after 3 weeks of age and being tired is NOT an option for the breeder. Most people don't do business without some planned profit margin, so if the pup sells for a few hundred dollars or less, the puppy may not be receiving top nutrition, medical or individual care. Never buy a pup if the breeder is willing to release the pup at 4 weeks of age. They still need to socialize with their mother and siblings for at least 2 more weeks, should just begin to be weaned from nursing and have only been eating puppy food for a week or so IF the breeder has fed them. If the breeder releases the pups without starting them on puppy food, socialization and proper medical care, you will most likely have a tough road ahead of you. The start they receive in life will be reflected upon the adult they are at maturity. To view a sample of the costs a breeder can incur, please click here to see some of our costs and our feeding program. A breeder usually pays the same price for services and supplies as anyone else does but it's multiplied by the number of pups per litter.
Gunnar shown at 9 weeks old - Gunnar lives in Missouri with his parents Malinda & Matthew Hall
First Born Bailey from Stitch's Feb. 2007 litter. Bailey lives with the Taylor family of Harrodsburg, Kentucky. Shown here at 4 weeks and 9 weeks.
Our Puppies & Program We currently raise first generation puggles which are a blending of a purebred AKC and/or CKC registered beagle female to a purebred AKC registered male pug. Please review our adult page for more information about our beagle Moms and our two AKC/CKC fawn champion pedigreed pug studs. We only raise a few litters a year and our dogs live inside our home as part of the family when not enjoying the outdoors. Our female beagles are not bred unless they are in top condition. Our females are bred on a rotational basis and breeding schedule will be posted several months in advance. We feel responsible for each life we produce and we do not breed unless we have pups already spoken for prior to a scheduled breeding. Because of this, we seldom have pups available at birth. If you are interested in Puggles but do not wish to place a deposit, we will add you to our waiting list or refer you to our breeder of choice in the event we do not have a litter available. Our puppies are raised in a home environment and are socialized with children, other dogs, cats and depending upon age; horses, and other farm animals. The pups are born and raised in our master bedroom and kitchen. By doing this, we can keep an eye on the pups and it draws on the pups "pack" instinct from day one. From birth we prepare them for a "normal" workday. Most of our adoptive families are employed outside the home and we prepare the pups for that type of environment. The pups start their day at 6am and we go to bed between 9-11pm. They are trained to a potty pad and litter box as soon as they begin walking. From 3 weeks of age, the pups receive top quality Eukanuba puppy formula 3 times per day in addition to nursing from their mother. Puppies 8 weeks and older CAN be fed twice per day if needed but three times is easier on their tummy. The pups razor sharp teeth come through their gums around 3 weeks of age and nursing becomes painful for the mother. We ask our moms to continue nursing until the pups are 4-5 weeks of age. Once weaned, our moms leave the constant care of the pups to us and sleep away from the pups. Our moms still socialize & play with their pups, but wear specially designed garments which gives them time with the pups without allowing the pups to nurse. This arrangement is wonderful for both mom & pups and gives the pups added socialization skills. With information gathered from their awaiting families, we include many facets of the pups new home into our program so each family effectively helps raise their own pup. This helps ready the pups for their new environment and aids in their transition from our home to yours.
First meal at 3 weeks old - very mushy puppy food served on a plate. We feed Eukanuba puppy food. For more information on our feeding program, click here - Kentucky Puggles Feeding Program.
Our pups are born and raised in a large crate with attached play yard. Before the pups begin walking, they remain inside the crate area. When the pups are newly born, mom cleans up after the pups and the play yard is mainly so mom can catch her breath and have a secure place to eat and rest while still watching her pups. After the pups begin walking, we section off a rear portion of the crate to allow mom privacy while giving her and pups ample room to walk and play in the play yard. The configuration of the play yard changes with the pups growth and needs. We place a removable section of vinyl tile over our carpet under the play yard. The tile flooring is very easy to clean, sanitize and it protects our carpet. Each pup receives one on one attention and time away from the litter daily. Because the pups are so healthy, well socialized and have been eating for 3 weeks, we normally allow pups to be picked up at 6 weeks of age. We do reserve the right to extend that time frame should we feel any pup needs the extra time. We will keep any pup until 8 weeks if the family desires the pup to stay longer or if the pup will be flying home. Vaccination protocol has recently changed and our vet does not begin vaccinations until 8 weeks of age. We will release the pups at 6 weeks with a vet exam but you are responsible for beginning their protocol with your vet. Any pups being shipped to their new home will need to remain with us until they are at least 8 weeks of age and will receive their first booster (duramune max5 cvk) and health certificate. Pups being shipped will begin carrier training at 6 weeks of age spending time in their carrier which is extended daily over a two week period until a 5 hour max has been reached. This is to prepare them for their flight home. For more information about vaccination protocol, vaccination definitions, and our medical program and expenses, please click here to go to the medical program and expense page. For their safety, young puppies do not go outside until they are about 5 weeks old. They are given ample opportunity to run and play in an outside play area with supervision as weather permits. The puppies first home within our home. Crate (shown divided with board) with all supplies on the top and play yard out front. Cody & Wrigley sleeping on clean potty pad while the other pups sleep with their snuggle puppy inside the crate area. We serve water in bowl and bottle form. Wood grain tile floor is easy to clean and sanitize. Play yard expands to 6' diameter circle but shown compacted for photo.
Photo of Stitch's February 2007 litter. Who can resist those little faces???
Going Home Opinions vary on when a pup should leave a breeders home. We wanted to touch on this and explain why we allow our pups to leave when we do. The new family must decide what they feel is best for them and their pup. We suggest you read the puppy development timeline which we've linked from the community news of Christchurch, New Zealand. The timeline gives some great detail of what your pup experiences at each stage of life with the breeder and what you can expect after you take your puppy home.
Sushi lives in Mayfield Heights, Ohio with the Deitcher family. What an adorable girl! Shown at 5 weeks and 9 weeks old
At 4 weeks puppies of any breed are too emotionally "needy" and separating them from their littermates and mother can have devastating consequences. They will not be very well socialized or developed and this can have a lasting effect. If the breeder has been feeding them, the pups have only JUST started eating mushy puppy food and will have trouble caring for itself. If a breeder lets a pup go at this age, they're only looking at the money, not the well-being of your pup. By 6 weeks, our pups have been weaned from nursing their mother for 1 to 1 1/2 weeks, have been eating puppy food for 3 weeks and are well on the way of developing their own personalities. They have remained with their mother even though no longer nursing because of the garment she wears. They are very well socialized and depending on the individual pup, ready to leave our home. Our vet has also given his approval for the pups to leave at this time. The pups know who we are but are receptive to other people during this stage too. At 6 weeks the pups have not established a true hierarchy within the litter but have a good sense of self, their littermates and knowledge of their place with people. Meaning, they begin to understand we're fun and nurturing but not littermates. At this age our pups are beginning to be crate trained and are learning that crying won't get them the desired result (your attention). We play many learning games with our pups and they learn quite a bit without realizing it. It's amazing to walk into a room of pups crying for attention, turning your back, quietly saying shhhh, waiting for the cries to stop and turning to face a litter of quiet (and sitting) little pups. It CAN be done but nothing is perfect at this age. You just need patience, consistency and the pups must know when you're actually asking them to be quiet and not just running through the room. We spend a lot of time with each individual puppy away from the litter and they get used to playing with us and cuddling on the couch. Our pups are especially fond of watching American Idol and listen intently to the singing. I swear we even hear them laughing at the contestants sometimes (just kidding). Quite often one of the adult girls or a pup will be sitting in my lap as I answer email. Mr T. lives in Solon, Ohio with Eileen Parmelee. Shown here at 2 weeks, 4 weeks and 6 weeks old. What a sweet baby boy. Intense cuddler and ear sucker!
Many sources recommend waiting until the puppies are 8 weeks of age before they leave. We have not seen any major developmental differences between our pups released at 6 or 8 weeks of age except the puppy's physical growth and the intensity of their play. They are not with their mother after the age of 6 weeks. Between 7 - 8 weeks the pups play together intensifies and can become rough at times. If the litter is kept together during this time, they establish a hierarchy within the litter which may forever determine their life status. I'm not totally convinced that an entire litter should be kept together at this stage since it could impact your pups future self esteem and ease of training. Whether a pup becomes a bully or submissive during this period, they may forever think of themselves as such. A bully may be harder to train or may become more assertive/aggressive and a submissive pup may always have confidence issues. Neither extreme is desirable in any breed and beagles generally have a more submissive personality as breeds go. Pugs are very tuned in to the tone of your voice and do not respond well to harsh tones. Be aware of both when training your Puggle. At 8 weeks of age a puppy can be shipped and should be socializing with his or her new family. At this time, they learn quite a bit and become more emotionally attached to their caregiver and separation from that caregiver can be more stressful. They can begin outdoor potty training although they'll still have some accidents for a few more months. Puppies also enter a "fear" stage sometime between the age of 8-12 weeks with 10 weeks being the normal average. They experience real fear of strangers and new situations even though they seemed settled before this time. We think going to a new home and entering a fear stage may be too much stress on a pup all at once, which is another reason we will release them at 6 weeks. If the pup is already with their new family, we feel this stage can be easier and less stressful. Pups should begin to realize people aren't chew toys but may not understand their bite strength yet. At this time human interaction and training are paramount if a pup will see their human family as their alpha leader. They must begin to learn that biting and chewing are not acceptable. It can be difficult for a breeder with even one litter (5-12 puppies) to give each puppy the individual attention and training they need during this stage, so ask the breeder what their program entails and how many litters they have at the time. The pups may stay longer but is it beneficial for them to do so? The humane society of the United States recommends that a pup should remain with the breeder until they are 12 weeks of age. I tend to think this is a little excessive since the pup should really have a good bond with their family by now and have beginning obedience training. They should know for certain that people are their pack leaders and are NOT chew toys or littermates. They still may not be sure of their bite strength but at 3 months of age, shouldn't be putting their teeth on a human (This of course must be taught by the caregiver as the pup will try to bite whomever it plays with unless taught otherwise). If a breeder keeps an entire litter until they are 12 weeks of age, the breeder has kept the pup through much of their crucial training and socialization period. For those pups that do not receive the individual attention and training they need, their personalities may forever reflect that void and training may then be more difficult for you. If a pup has not had much human interaction at this point, they may have a stronger bond with other dogs and be more aloof towards humans. So as you see, a lot of factors can shape your puppy's life. We want the best for you and your pup. We release our pups at 6 weeks, will keep any pup until they are 8 weeks but strongly encourage pups to be in their new home prior to their real fear stage (10 wks). We will not release any puppy until they are at least 6 weeks old under ANY circumstances. Should you decide you'd rather your pup remain with us after 8 weeks of age, a $10.00 per day board fee and any needed vet fees will apply. Your pup will go outside to learn potty training and will have beginning obedience training. They will NOT be fully trained at this age.
Gunnar with Mom Melinda (At 2 months old) and Dad Matthew (At 4 months old)
The First Few Nights Home (Or-What Have We Gotten Ourselves Into?) The first night and following week home for your new puppy can be pretty traumatic and sleepless for THEM AND YOU. The pups will be leaving our family, their littermates and EVERYTHING they've known from birth and entering an entirely NEW environment. They will not instantly understand your home is their new home, that you are their new family, or where everything is. They will only know that they've lost their security and they're with strangers in a strange place. They deal with this by crying and who wouldn't? The first weeks at home will require you to compromise your schedule so that you can help ease your new puppy into your own routine. They have been raised to a normal 8am-5pm workday. They wake up around 6am and go to bed for the night around 10pm in the central time zone. If the pup is taken to another state, a time zone difference may also be observed. Having raised the pups in our bedroom, we know they are capable of sleeping through the night. After they learn they can do this on their own without their littermates, they should sleep just fine. You may have to endure a few sleepless nights, but hang in there. Providing your puppy with a Snuggle Puppy may help them sleep better. Keep in mind your puppy will be on the same schedule 7 days a week. Unfortunately they do not understand weekends and your desire to sleep later at that time. Like a newborn baby, a puppy will change your life - for the better. Just prepare yourself for some compromises. It is up to the adoptive family to decide whether a puppy or dog is right for them. We do reserve the right to refuse adoption if we do not feel an interested family can care for a puppy. It is also your responsibility to obtain permission from your landlord and pay all deposits required if living in a tenant situation. We are not responsible for allergies within your family or lifestyle changes so be sure you are ready to commit to adopting a Puggle before placing a deposit with us. Please do your research on puggles, pugs and beagles. Your pup is a mix of the two breeds and will have characteristics of both. No matter whether you bring home a puppy or adult dog, that new family member will solely rely upon you for it's nutrition, manners, health, and training- just like human children do. Most dogs that end up in the shelter are from families or individuals who just couldn't or wouldn't commit to the care and training of the dog or pup they "had to have". If you do not feel you can commit to the needs of a puppy or dog, please do not adopt one from us. Bringing a puppy or dog into your home is a lifelong commitment and if you have any doubts, it's best to wait.
Adorable Wrigley at 3 months old. Wrigley watching American Idol May 2007. Wrigley lives in Schaumburg, Illinois with parents Ryan & Mollyann
Realistic Expectations of Your Puppy A Note to New & Prospective Puppy Parents Although we do spend a lot of time socializing with your pup and preparing him or her for home before he or she leaves our care, it is important that you have realistic expectations of your pup upon arrival home. First and foremost, your puppy is a puppy and will do what a puppy does. They are not perfect, they bite, chew, pee on your carpet and other wonderfully annoying tidbits. A puppy begins to have knowledge of their environment at 4 weeks of age but can not mentally or physically understand it until they are about 3-4 months of age. At 4 weeks and under, they sleep a lot and cuddle with us and their littermates quite a bit. As your puppy grows, they sleep less, are more active and require much more care. They love to be held but also LOVE to play. While with their littermates, they do expend a lot of their energy playing with each other. Once they leave the litter, you're all they have to play with. We work with the pups on many facets of their behavior but it's only a beginning foundation. We can not teach your pup everything or provide all the training they will require by the time they mature. Still, many people have a vision of receiving a calm, well trained puppy in their mind when they adopt one. Regardless of breed, puppies are puppies and ALL puppies have energy, ALL puppies bite and chew, ALL puppies must be potty trained, and All puppies have attention requirements and ALL puppies must be obedience trained. DO NOT expect your pup to arrive home knowing what you're asking them to do, where you want them to potty, obey your commands or wanting to snuggle with you every moment they're awake. Puppies are on the go and are pretty self absorbed for several months, needing attention bestowed upon them. As all pups mature, they become more focused on their people and derive their pleasure from pleasing you. All pups will test new people in their lives and regardless of breed will go through various stages of growth. They will be mouthy (like with human babies, all things go into their mouths), they won't know their bite strength or that you aren't interested in being bitten and won't want to cuddle or be physically restrained unless they're tired. Have you ever tried to make a toddler sit still for a few minutes or make them sit in your lap when they'd rather run? They will be happy to see you and want your attention. They WILL make a mess of your floor if not confined and taught proper potty habits. They WILL be scared and out of sorts the first week home. They will probably cry the first few nights -expect that. Do NOT expect a perfectly well behaved mature lap dog when adopting a puppy regardless of breed. It's NOT going to happen and you're setting yourself and your puppy up for failure. Raising a puppy is very much like raising a human baby only a puppy will mature at a faster rate. It is up to you, the parent or alpha leader to establish boundaries, train your puppy and understand their various stages of physical and mental development and provide all their care. Whether you're raising a pup or a human child, there are going to be moments of frustration, times when you have to be creative with training (not all things work with all pups) and times you think your pup or child is doing things just to irritate you. They're not - they love you but don't always understand what you're trying to communicate to them or may not be mature enough to comply to your demands. They don't expect you to be perfect so don't expect it of a baby. By 4-6 months your pup will be well on their way to a well trained individual as long as you've done your part but they won't be perfect. Expect your pup to remain somewhat of a pup until a year to 18 months old. With your hard work, patience, continuity and love, your energetic puppy will bloom into a dedicated and well trained adult. If you are expecting a mature fully trained Puggle puppy to arrive at your home, please skip the puppy and go adopt a mature fully trained Puggle adult. If a puppy is calm, quiet and reserved all the time- get them to the vet. Puppies are puppies and are meant to have energy. Personal Visits We've been asked if we will accept personal visits or allow you to choose your pup in person. For the security of our farm, family business, our dogs and client horses that may be present at the time, we do NOT allow unscheduled visitors. We do use security cameras in various areas of the farm as well. Once the pups arrive, the crates our girls sleep in are covered and sides are lined with disposable cardboard to keep out drafts and create a more secure environment. See a photo of one such crate on our puppy page. We do allow depositors to visit after the pups are born, but discourage visitation during the first two weeks of the puppy's life. Puppies are very susceptible to outside disease and illness. In the event you wish to choose your puppy in person, you will be required to leave your shoes at the front door and wash up to the elbow in antibacterial soap prior to visiting with the puppies. No visitor is allowed to reach into the crate to remove a pup since mom will be very protective. We also ask that you limit any contact with other dogs for several days prior to your visit. It may sound extreme but we must protect the puppies the best we can. Unless you have a deposit on a particular litter, you will not be allowed visitation. This may sound odd but we must protect our babies, as a client you'd expect us to protect your pup. People going from breeder to breeder can bring illness and/or disease on clothing or their person and we must minimize that occurrence.
Now who couldn't love these little faces? Kirby (left) & Cody (right) at 3 months old Adoption Information All puppies come with CKC registration (as mixed breed), immunization records, vet exam, weight records, a training DVD, new puppy information and receive all their scheduled shots and de-worming prior to pick up or shipping. Puppies being air shipped will receive a health certificate per airline regulations. As a standard, we also offer Avid micro-chipping services (included in the price of your pup). Adoption Prices will be listed as each new expected litter is announced. Pups born from October - December will have a higher adoption price to protect them from impulsive adoption during the Christmas season and to assist with the higher heating bills at that time. We accept deposits of $100 to hold the puppy of your choice until it's weaned. Air shipment is available for an additional $300 (subject to change with airline fare increase). All pups must be at least 8 weeks of age prior to shipping. We have the right to delay shipment in extreme temperatures for the health and safety of your puppy. Installments are required on the adoption price of a pup, payable at 2, 4 & 6 weeks (including shipping and PayPal fee). If PayPal is used for installments, a one time $25 PayPal fee will be added to adoption price. If total balance is remitted at 2 weeks of age, PayPal fee is waived. If older pup is adopted, full payment is due upon adoption. Should you desire to leave your pup with us after the age of 8 weeks old, please be aware we do charge a boarding fee of $10 per day and the owner becomes responsible for all medical fees. Any pup not being shipped remaining after 8 weeks must be paid for in full along with any anticipated boarding fees. Our policies have changed a little in 2010. Please see the puppy page for full information. We will keep a reserved litter list for families who have placed a deposit. Once born, puppies are adopted by families in order of deposit depending on gender choice. Although most of the time we have large litters (average 5-8 per litter) we can not guarantee the litter size, gender mix or exactly what time of year our females will be in heat. Breeding is determined by heat cycle and number of deposits on anticipated puppies. We guarantee a pup within a year or your deposit is fully refundable. If you decide you need to wait on a pup, we will put you to the bottom of the reserve list (one time only) or onto the extended waiting list (up to two years). The deposit will ONLY be refunded if the gender you desire is unavailable within a year's time, or the puppy you choose becomes sick, injured or dies prior to pick up or shipment. For breeding and deposit policies, please see our puppy page. We email newsletters while the female is pregnant about every two weeks with photos and updates. Once the pups arrive, we email photos of the litter to each depositor at least once a week. Depositors choose their puppy in the order in which their deposit is received. Choosing does not begin until the pups are about 4 weeks old. Each depositor is given up to 5 days to make their choice (if traveling to pick in person) and will be moved to the next in line if they can not choose in the allotted time frame. Luckily making a choice isn't that difficult and most depositors pick their pup within 24 hours. New families receive photos of their pups at least once a week. It's fun to watch them grow and change.
Mobie being a ham 9/12/06-3 months old No small dog complex here!-Wrigley 9/16/06 What Do Newborn Puggles Look Like? Newborns have very compact facial features which expand as they mature. Sometimes their noses and paw pads are pink at birth but will normally turn black. Puggles are also born darker and lighten as they mature. Ears open around 12 days and the pups can hear. Their eyes open around 12-14 days and they begin walking by 2-2 1/2 weeks old. Teeth come through their gums around 3 - 3 1/2 weeks old and they try them out on a mushy puppy food mixture. At 5 weeks they visit our vet and receive their Avid microchip. Our vet has approved all of our previous litters to go to their new homes at 6 weeks of age based on the fact they've been eating well for 3 weeks and their physical & mental condition. We recommend that you review the puppy development timeline below to get an idea of each stage your puppy will go through. To see how quickly the pups change, take a look at our photo album page.
At rest after a hard birthing day 6/17/06 Newborn Wrigley June 17th 2006
Gunnar at 1 week old 6/24/06 Two Week old Kirby July 1, 2006
Wrigley at 3 weeks old 7/10/06 Cody pouncing at 4 weeks
6 week old Mobie & Lilo playing on our bed Gunnar at 6 weeks
Mature Cody shown January 2007 Kirby & his Mom, Tommie Ann. Uh oh! I think I've been caught! Dec. 2006
Wrigley at home May 2007 Snuggling with Mom Mollyann at 11 months New!!!!! Photo Album From Birth To Maturity See Below
Please click on each line below to access: Our Available Pups & Expected Litter Dates NEW!! Puggle Photo Album From Birth To Maturity (a work in progress) NEW!!!! ***Purchase Contract (pdf document) *** 2010 contract currently being revised - please request prior to posting Kentucky Puggles Feeding Program
For Reference & Training We recommend all of our clients invest in a SnugglePuppie. If you haven't seen them on the market, they are a stuffed dog (in various colors & design) with an imitation heartbeat which runs on batteries (included), comes with two heat packs (20 hrs of warmth) and a drawstring bag so you can heat dry rice in the microwave (heat will last approx 3 hours). This wonderful SnugglePuppie helps make the transition from littermates to new home that much easier. The first few nights home will be more restful for everyone. *** (Wonderful link to Christchurch, New Zealand community) The Seven Stages of Puppy Development Excellent insiders view on how far your puppy has come since birth and what they will experience after they go home. *** Your puppy will have the beginning ground work for housetraining, crate training, leash training and other areas of development. It is up to you, their new family to complete their training. Please do so in the most humane and respectful way. For some recommended reading, click on the below links to information from the Humane Society of the United States. Eating Strange Things (like feces)
Puggle Nation - Forum and message board with all things puggle related. Kentucky Puggles is a forum consultant and I check in several times a week, less often when I have puppies in house. www.meetup.com - find meet up groups in your area where dogs of many breeds get together for play time. Kentucky Puggles is a member of meet up groups across the country to support our clients. Discounted Spay & Neutering Programs Thank you Everyone At Puggle Nation for your help! There are many programs out there that offer a discounted or free spay/neuter certificate that you can use at your local vet. Chances are your local humane society offers a discounted service as well. I've listed several national programs below so please take a look. New programs will be added as they're found. National Programs - only a sample
State Programs - just a few listed
Contact Us! Email us at neilnk@accessky.net OR Call 270-991-8587 (cell). Cell phone will be turned off at times but we will return your call quickly.
*Please note some pictures on this website have been
digitally altered to remove people or objects so as not to distract from
the intended subject.
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